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Photo by authors (2014). Both Nikel (approximately 12, 000 inhabitants) and Zapolyarny (approximately 15, 000 inhabitants) are company towns of Kola Mining and Metallurgical Company (hereafter, Kola MMC), a part of Norilsk Nickel Group. Nowadays, Kola MMC extracts copper-nickel ore at the Kaula-Kotselvaara mine near the town of Nikel and operates a smelter located in the town. Both towns are closely linked with the industries that provide employment and urban services for residents. One third of all working-age residents are employed by Kola MMC. Figure 13: A semiabandoned Soviet-era movie theater, Yunost’ (Youth), as an indicator of urban change in Zapolyarny, Russia.
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With tourism and retail next to resource extraction, Kirkenes has become a town with a comparably diversified economy (Viken and others 2008). Many other places in coastal northern Norway struggle to diversify their economy. Old fishing settlements have been affected by new fishing quotas, fish farming, the use of trawlers, various new technologies, and the outsourcing of fish processing to places where labor is cheaper. These changes have left visible traces on the route north towards Vardø.
Exploring Arctic Diversity by Hitting the Road: Where Finland Although the border triangle of Finland, Norway, and Russia lies some 100 km south most of whom (approximately 40,000) live in Norway, primarily in
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The museum's focus is on precolonial times, traditional beliefs, and handicrafts (Várjjat Sámi Musea). We also found a private collection (Sjøsamiske samlinger/Coastal Sámi collections) of everyday objects dedicated to the Coastal Sámi and their life, organized by the local enthusiast Helmer Losoa in Byluft, Nesseby municipality. While travelling south towards the town of Inari, 3 we explored the Skolt Sámi Heritage House and open-air museum in Sevettijärvi, dedicated to Skolt Sámi history, handicrafts, literature, and housing (Skolt Sámi Heritage House). There is an Orthodox Church dedicated to Saint Tryphon of Pechenga, a monk and founder of the Pechenga monastery who is believed to have converted the local Sámi population to Christianity in the sixteenth century.
At the same time, there are independent Sámi organizations, such as the Sámi Parliament of the Kola Peninsula, which do not receive state support (Kuelnegk Soamet Sobbar 2014). Moreover, the authorities obstruct their activities by “hijacking†the parliament's agenda and organizing parallel events attended by government officials and members of organizations loyal to the authorities (Artieva 2014). Linguists differentiate between ten or more Sámi languages in Finland, Norway, Russia, and Sweden. The two main branches include Eastern and Western Sámi languages, which are not mutually intelligible, and can be further divided into subgroups, languages, and dialects.
The area around Kirkenes is a melting pot of Western and Eastern Sámi cultures. Towards the north of Kirkenes, along Varangerfjord, Northern dialects (of the Western branch) are spoken. Among all Sámi languages, Northern Sámi is most prevalent, with an estimated 20, 000 speakers, and is the Sámi language most often taught at educational institutions, from kindergarten to university level.
Along the road to Murmansk, there are several settlements (for example, Pechenga and Sputnik) that house military personnel, border guards, and their families. Whereas a few years ago such settlements could have been considered a form of Soviet-era heritage, Russia's new Arctic Strategy (2013) implies the re-emerging strategic and developmental relevance of the Arctic for the country and its security. Figure 15: The “Hill of Honor, †a memorial site to World War II in Pechenga, Russia.
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In contrast to the indigenous Sámi people, all other groups settling in Kirkenes and its environs are newcomers. This includes an estimated 10, 000 to 15, 000 Kven-Norwegian citizens who speak a Finnic language and identify themselves as descendants of migrants to northern Norway prior to 1945 (Kvensk Institutt 2015). Smaller in numbers and only recently recognized as a national minority (but not as an indigenous people), 6 the Kven people are organized to a lesser degree, 7 and Kven culture is less visible in the region. We encountered a few town signs and visited the Vadsø Museum-Ruija Museum, which explores the history of the Kven people and their way of life in Ruija (Finnmark or, literally, land by the icy sea), combining indoor exhibits with an open-air display that features a traditional Kven yard including a smith, bakery, and sauna.
In addition to the typical Soviet-era monuments dedicated to World War II and Lenin, there are monuments and signs associated with the history of socialist industrialization that brought development, masses of workers, and prosperity to the region. Figure 14: A Sunday afternoon at the lively central square in Zapolyarny, Russia. Photo by authors (2014).
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